We ate our way through Kalbadevi, Colaba, much of Marine Drive, a little bit of Fort, some parts of Bandra and all the way along Chowpatty Beach to bring you this, our greatest eats of Mumbai.
Whilst it’s not a comprehensive list (forgive us, we only had 7 days) these were the places, meals and experiences which we’ll be thinking about for some time to come and until we have a chance to come back.
Best Breakfast: Olympia Coffee House
Sack off touristy Leopold’s and cross the road to this local gem. A beautiful wooden and mirrored wall cafe Muslim cafe where waiters from Ahmedabad dish up either softly spiced keema (mince) or keema and egg (baida bhurji) along with a handful of soft bread to mop up it all up with. This breakfast is the stuff of dreams.
Address: opposite Leopolds. Rahim Mansion, Colaba Causeway
Price: approx £1.50 for a breakfast with chai
Best Street Food: Badshah Pani Puri
We threw caution to the wind and ordered a plate of bhel puri on Chowpatty Beach and it was worth every single grain of puffed rice. Badshah easily wins biggest crowd, fastest puri maker in the East and tastiest plate of bhel puri we’ve had so far in India. Bhel puri, by the way, is a little plate of puffed rice, topped with finely chopped onion, coriander, chilli and some delicious sweet and spicy tamarind and date chutney.
(Ps. we tried a lot of Bombay sandwiches, vada pav and some pav bhaji before coming to our decision)
Address: Badshah Pani Puri, Stall no 16, Chowpatty Beach
Price: around 60p for a plate
Best Seafood: Trishna
Seafood is plentiful in Mumbai, Mumbaikers love it and you can get it all at Trishna. It’s a small restaurant tucked away in Kalbadevi, an area which feels more like downtown New York than downtown Mumbai. We ate the much loved Bombay Duck, a soft battered and deep fried fish and the much famed Hyderbadi pomfret, fried in back pepper. Both were faultless and delicious – we could have come back every single night.
Address: 7 Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort (near Rhythm House)
Price: approx £40 for two inc. a bottle of wine
Best patisserie: Theobroma
Theobroma dishes up world class brownies. Just the right amount of chocolate density, a perfect crisp-on-the-outside and gooey-on-the-inside ratio and they come in lots of different flavours. We ate their classic brownie along with a cardamom and pistachio truffle. Okay, we ate their red velvet cake too (all in the name of research)
Address: Shop 24, Cusrow Baug, Colaba Causeway
Price: Around 50p for a truffle and £1 for a brownie
Best kebab: Bademiya
This feels like every meat loving Mumbaikers dirty little secret. Tucked away in a back alley behind the famous Taj, locals of all different cloths and sizes come here to surreptitiously munch on roomali rotis and kebabs late into the night. Our favourite was the chicken tikka roll.
Address: • Bademiya, Tulloch Rd, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, £1.50 a roll. Open 5pm-4am
Price: around £1.50 per roll
Best Gujarati food: Shree Thaker Bhojanalay
We were taken here by a family friend, we hadn’t heard of it but it’s been voted Best Gujarati Food in Mumbai several years running. While titles make me a natural skeptic, this actually is the best Gujarati food i’ve ever eaten outside of a Gujarati family home. The thali they serve is an art form, each dish is delicate and precisely flavoured. Come hungry, the waiters will feed you until you beg them to stop (just like any Gujarati mum.)
Address: 31, Dadyseth Agiary Marg, opposite GT High School, Kalbadevi
Price: Around £9 for a thali
Best Parsi / Irani Cafe: Cafe Britannia
I’ve already written about Cafe Britannia here. The Parsi restaurants were my favourite of all the restaurants in Mumbai and this was my favourite of all the Parsi restaurants. This cafe still doing what it’s done for over 90 years. Make sure to order Chicken Berry Pulao, Sali Boti, Fish ni patra, a lime soda and a creme caramel to finish with. You won’t regret it.
Address: Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, Mumbai
Price: Around £15 for two people including drinks